Dermaplaning Downside: Consider this before your next Facial

Dermaplaning Downside: Consider this before your next Facial
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I’m sure most of you are famil­iar with derma­plan­ing. It’s heav­i­ly cir­cu­lat­ed through insta­gram and twit­ter where Estheti­cian’s every­where are rein­forc­ing the tech­nique over and over for flaw­less look­ing skin. For those less than famil­iar with the term it’s basi­cal­ly a tech­nique that uses a scalpel, yes the kind sur­geons make inci­sions with, to remove the vel­lus hair and dead skin from your face. The results? sup­pos­ed­ly, ultra smooth, fresh, and brighter skin.

The before and after pic­tures are wow­ing and real­ly made me con­sid­er try­ing it, because who does­n’t want to glow? How­ev­er, there was some­thing about this tech­nique that did­n’t sit well. After all, the vel­lus hair is on your face for a rea­son.

Last week I inter­viewed my best friend, Christi­na that had this treat­ment done on her skin. We were both real­ly excit­ed about the results of her skin look­ing baby bot­tom smooth and dewy. But, things went way off the grid.

In the inter­view below you can read how her expe­ri­ence went with the derma­plan­ing tech­nique.

What piqued your interest about trying dermaplaning?

Christi­na: Social media for sure. I fol­low a lot of estheti­cians and skin care accounts on Twit­ter and Insta­gram. It was the next cool thing to try because every­one was try­ing it and it was pop­u­lar.

There are many fads in the skin­care indus­try. There are many things that may be rein­forced again and again just because it’s trendy, BUT it does­n’t nec­es­sar­i­ly mean you should try it or that’s its right for your skin type.

What appeased you about dermaplaning?

Christi­na: I’m a nat­u­ral­ly a hairy per­son and so if I get this I’m like, my skin is gonna glow! Like in the before and after pics. It’ll be a quick fix!

Pri­or to hear­ing about derma­plan­ing craze were you con­cerned with the vel­lus hairs on your face? Did they ever give you prob­lems such as mak­ing make­up look less smooth, dull tex­ture?

Christi­na: It was a tex­ture thing. Any­one who is a hairy per­son under­stands. I nat­u­ral­ly get mus­tach­es and chin hairs so I want­ed to remove them.

Vel­lus hairs are the light col­ored hairs on your body they are respon­si­ble for help­ing to deliv­er oils to the skin. If you notice that your vel­lus hair is chang­ing to dark­er hair and increas­ing in fre­quen­cy on dif­fer­ent parts of your body this can be a sign of a hor­mon­al imbal­ance.

What were your skincare concerns prior to going to the esthetician?

Christi­na: tex­ture . the top lay­er of dead skin and even­ness. That’s what I thought derma­plan­ing would improve.

Was this your first professional spa like experience?

Christi­na: I usu­al­ly get the hydra facials at Sepho­ra. This wasn’t my first expe­ri­ence, but this was my first time seek­ing out a med­ical care pro­fes­sion­al for my skin. I went to a der­ma­tol­o­gist office to get it done. The spa was super relax­ing and upscale. There was a nice com­fort­able ambiance. And I thought it was going to be a real­ly great expe­ri­ence over­all.

Can you walk me through exactly what your esthi did during your spa experience?

Christi­na: When I first got there, I was instruct­ed to sign this paper– a lia­bil­i­ty clause that this treat­ment could poten­tial­ly be harm­ful. She didn’t do any con­sul­ta­tion. I laid down she looked through the mag­ni­fy­ing lamp and she said, you have real­ly nice skin asked what I used on my skin. Then she cleaned it with pads soaked in this solu­tion with­out expla­na­tion; it last­ed at most 2 min­utes and that was it!

If your Esthi does­n’t do a con­sul­ta­tion just grab your purse and leave sis, cause she does­n’t care about your skin. A con­sul­ta­tion is a way to find out your at home rou­tine, areas you want to improve, and most impor­tant­ly medications/health prob­lems that can inter­fere with cer­tain facial pro­ce­dures.

After she cleaned my face she put a solu­tion that smelled strong sort of like ace­tone and it made my face feel tacky. She said she was sup­posed to put this on before derma­plan­ing. Then she final­ly starts the derma­plan­ing process. In cer­tain areas, I could feel it scrap­ing against my skin. It sound­ed like fin­ger­nails scratch­ing across your skin that’s the sound and feel it makes. It isn’t painful just uncom­fort­able.

She applied a serum pri­or to micro­der­mabra­sion. I remem­ber the serum feel­ing tingly and a burn­ing sen­sa­tion in cer­tain areas like cheeks, bridge of fore­head and my nose. Then she would go back in with a scalpel and remove hair that she missed and con­tin­ue with the micro­der­mabra­sion. It last­ed at most 5 to 6 min­utes. It felt super quick and imper­son­al. And last­ed 45 min­utes. After, she did extrac­tions on my nose and cheeks fore­head, and chin.

Dou­ble exfo­li­a­tion is a no-no. I think there are cer­tain skin types that can tol­er­ate this but cer­tain­ly not all. Derma­plan­ing is already an exfo­li­a­tion treat­ment. A hydrat­ing treat­ment like a jel­ly mask would’ve been best to calm down the new­ly exfo­li­at­ed skin.

After that, she went through the reg­u­lar parts of a skin­care rou­tine mois­tur­iz­er and spf.

Did your esthetician give you aftercare advice on how to properly treat your skin?

Christi­na:No none at all. I had to ask her. She said you’ll expe­ri­ence stub­ble in 2 to 3 weeks. It’ll feel thick­er but it won’t be notice­able by any­one else. It was very ter­ri­ble ser­vice and unhelp­ful she didn’t even tell me when to come back.

Home­girl clear­ly does­n’t care about build­ing clien­tele and seems to lack over­all pas­sion for the indus­try. Your esthi should take the time out to thor­ough­ly explain a prop­er home care reg­i­men along with prod­ucts. Besides, the goal is to main­tain your skin in between spa treat­ments.

After­ward, she showed me a mir­ror and I was wowed because it looked real­ly nice and it felt real­ly smooth, but It did­n’t feel fresh and renewed. Obvi­ous­ly, when you shave oth­er parts of your body it looks brighter cause you removed all the hair that’s exact­ly what I expe­ri­enced, but it did­n’t feel fresh, it felt raw and tin­der if any­thing.

When was the moment of regret?

Christi­na: When I got home I real­ized she scratched me on my nose and on my cheek cause it was burn­ing. To rem­e­dy it, I used adap­to­gen cream by Youth to The Peo­ple. I stopped using my foam­ing cleanser, and I stopped using ton­ers even my alco­hol-free ton­er cause it burned. I would use tamanu oil, aloe, and sun­screen and my night time rou­tine was the same a part from sun­screen I would just use aloe.

In this case, Christi­na’s skin bar­ri­er was com­pro­mised mean­ing her skin was inflamed, tin­der, and extreme­ly parched. When this hap­pens you have to be very, very gen­tle with your skin. I explain exact­ly how in this blog post.

My face is super dry and it was flak­ing and its the dri­est its ever been. I use half of my adap­to­gen cream and its not even soak­ing in.  

How does your skin feel now?

Christi­na: Its been 5 days since the treat­ment. My hair is grow­ing back I can feel it on the chin and slight­ly on the cheeks. I’m get­ting real­ly ter­ri­ble acne– I’m get­ting the acne that’s under the skin. I’ve always had hor­mon­al acne but nev­er this! So I’m sure it had to stem from this.

These appear to be razor like bumps that the derma­plan­ing trig­gered by the removal of the hair from trapped oil. Derma­plan­ing is def­i­nite­ly not for all skin types!

What would you recommend for someone considering the same treatment?

Christi­na:  I would say do your research. Even on the pro­ce­dure, you’re get­ting. Be real­ly cau­tious about treat­ments that take a one size fits all approach. I wouldn’t rec­om­mend it for any­one cause would you take your fin­ger­nails and scratch it across your face dai­ly, grant­ed you do it once a month but it’s irri­tat­ing and I don’t think it’s healthy for your skin!

Three weeks lat­er and the irri­ta­tion has gone away and her skin is heal­ing beau­ti­ful­ly.

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